Katie’s Squash Casserole

There is nothing more truly American than squash. First mentioned in the first American cookbook, American Cookery included recipes for crookneck squash. When Spaniards got to Texas, they found Indians already cultivating the ubiquitous vegetable.

For a food so indigenous, it is hard to believe that today there are parts of the Americas that are devoid of this staple. It’s true. A good squash casserole is hard to find in Los Angeles. In the culinary capital of nouvelle cuisine, where you can eat at 100 different restaurants from 100 different countries, there are no Southern squash casseroles – a fact quickly identified by my daughter, Katie, when she moved from the bastion of “meat and threes” to the City of Angels. No squash casseroles in restaurants, in cafes, in lunch counters, or Ralph’s deli. Not even a sign of a cafeteria to scoop out the ever-present squash casserole, fried okra, and overcooked Kentucky Wonder beans.

That’s a hard reality for a young girl so Southern she speaks three languages of home cooking – Texas, Tennessee and Alabama. A girl that was raised on grits and grace, Arnold’s Home Cooking, and the Belle Meade Buffeteria.

Because our familial tastes are clearly defined at our Mother’s table, it is no wonder that true homesickness is expressed as a longing for our favorite dishes made for us by our favorite people. I was no different. I longed for chicken and dressing, purple hull peas, and my Mother’s squash casserole.

For Katie, it is similar – my squash casserole, fresh-from-the-garden sliced tomatoes, and turnip greens. It’s a request for attention, for a little Mothering, for an infusion of home values, comfort and love, proof that some things never change.

And for mothers, it is the reason we wrap food in foil for kids to take on airplanes and mail cookies, to lengthen the connection, to make sure they take a little home with them. It’s why we are the 1-800 home hotline for their shopping and cooking excursions. It’s the reason we make them recipe cards, cookbooks and tell them what we are having for dinner when they call home. So they don’t forget.

Katie’s Squash Casserole
4 cups cooked squash (8-10 squash)
1 onion, chopped
½ bell pepper, chopped
2 eggs, beaten
½ cup milk
1 cup grated Cheddar cheese
¼ cup margarine or butter
1 cup cracker crumbs (Ritz or regular)
Salt and pepper to taste
Cook squash; mash. Sauté onion and green pepper in butter until tender. Mix with other ingredients, reserving a small amount of the cheese and cracker crumbs for garnish. Put in a greased 2 quart casserole or 9×12 pan and garnish with cheese and crumbs. Bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes, uncovered.

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